Yohji Yamamoto returned to the Paris stage in July 1996 with a menswear collection that rejected minimalism and embraced bold extravagance. Titled Baroque, the collection defied the quiet simplicity often associated with men’s fashion. It celebrated what Yamamoto called “the bad taste of a grown man wearing clothing made for women, too tight for ease and overly adorned for restraint.” The show opened with Yamamoto’s signature suiting—refined and familiar—before erupting into a kaleidoscope of vibrant prints, flowing silhouettes, and unconventional sneakers crafted from a mix of materials. The collection merged the dramatic opulence of Baroque-era aesthetics with the rebellious energy of mid-century urban style. Hawaiian shirts and oversized trousers brought a sense of relaxed masculinity, while tailored tops borrowed from womenswear hinted at a softer edge. Denim and sportswear also played significant roles, with several models sporting Reebok InstaPump Fury OG sneakers. In a bold casting move, the runway featured a roster of celebrated figures, including Vincent Gallo, Ron Perlman, Seymour Cassel, Tony Leung, and Chang Chen, alongside James Lavelle. The backstage energy, captured by photographer Christophe Rihet, was later compiled into an evocative visual booklet, immortalizing the creative chaos of the moment. Subtle touches added depth to the collection, such as Yamamoto eyewear, which made an understated debut on the runway. Seymour Cassel, for instance, donned sunglasses from the Autumn/Winter 1996-1997 line, seamlessly blending past and present. While the collection was undeniably bold, it wasn’t without criticism. Some voices in the fashion world, like Amy M. Spindler, felt that Yamamoto’s menswear lacked direction at the time, while Suzy Menkes suggested the designer’s anti-establishment attitude seemed out of step with the strides menswear had recently made in breaking traditional boundaries. Nonetheless, Yamamoto’s defiance of convention proved as daring as ever. In a world of streamlined minimalism, he remained committed to exploring the dramatic, the playful, and the unapologetically excessive. For Yohji, the challenge is always worth taking. For more articles and videos go to sevenonethreemag.com
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